The Secret History of Gabrielle Chanel: Reflections from the V&A exhibition

The name Chanel instantly conjures images of unparalleled luxury, glamour, and impeccable taste. It's a brand synonymous with sophistication and minimalism, seamlessly blending classic beauty with modern ideas that have inspired generations across the globe. At its heart lies Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, celebrated as a pioneer who revolutionised women's fashion and shaped modern style like no other. Yet, beneath the polished façade of effortless chic lies a far more intricate, and at times controversial, "untold story" that transcends the runway. 

The stained glass window at the orphanage which may have influenced her iconic logo.

Coco's journey began in profound poverty, born in Saumur, France, in 1883. Orphaned at twelve, she honed her sewing skills in a convent, where the nuns' plain, practical clothing inadvertently influenced her nascent design philosophy of simplicity and refinement.  This rigid environment forged her tenacity and ignited an ambitious dream to rise above her humble beginnings. Before her meteoric rise, Gabrielle briefly sang in cabarets, earning the enduring nickname "Coco" from popular songs. Her pivotal entry into Parisian high society was facilitated by wealthy patrons and lovers, notably Arthur "Boy" Capel, who financed her first millinery shop, "Chanel Mode," in Paris in 1910. 

Chanel's hats were incredibly simple, stripped back from the excess feathers that were associated with fashion from La Belle Epoque

Chanel's success also lies in her ability to network and collect wealthy patrons (many of whom were also romantically involved with her)

Coco championed a radical new philosophy: fashion should be functional, comfortable, and liberating. She shattered the restrictive pre-Chanel landscape of corsets and voluminous skirts, introducing looser silhouettes and pioneering the popularisation of jersey fabric in women's fashion – a material previously reserved for men's underwear. Her designs actively encouraged women to embrace confidence and freedom. Her most enduring contributions include the iconic Little Black Dress, introduced in 1926, which transformed black from mourning attire into a symbol of ubiquitous style, and the Chanel Suit, a two-piece ensemble inspired by menswear, perfect for the burgeoning post-war working woman. The revolutionary 2.55 handbag, launched in 1955, was the first luxury bag for women to feature a shoulder strap, literally freeing women's hands. She even democratised adornment by popularising costume jewellery, boldly mixing imitation pearls with precious pieces. ​

Chanel (left) in her radically modern style: clean, simple lines with a touch of androgyny, blacks and whites

A woman wearing Chanel at the races. Classic early Chanel: simple yet clean details; notice the low placement of the skirt and belt at the hips, the pleats and the row of pearls and simple hat.

Beyond her creative genius, Coco was a formidable businesswoman. By 1935, her diversified holdings included boutiques, a textile business, and successful brand extensions like Chanel No. 5, managing over 4,000 employees. By creating a perfume, this was a way to make her brand more accessible through it's affordability as well as creating a product that could be sold and transported easily. All women can wear a fragrance unlike an item of clothing. The legendary Chanel No. 5, launched in 1921, became one of the world's most famous perfumes, famously immortalised by Marilyn Monroe. However, the story of No. 5 is also intertwined with a contentious business dispute with the Wertheimer family, her Jewish partners. During World War II, Coco controversially attempted to use Nazi Aryanisation laws to seize full ownership of Parfums Chanel, a ruthless act that revealed a darker, opportunistic side to her ambition. Declassified documents have also revealed her direct collaboration with Nazi intelligence, operating as Abwehr Agent F-7124, though she was never formally charged, reportedly due to intervention from Winston Churchill.  The Chanel exhibition at the V&A does suggest she also worked with the Allies but this evidence has been contested. 

Chanel with Winston Churchill (r) and his son Randolph (l). She met them through her relationship with The Duke of Westminster who introduced her to shooting, fishing and the Scottish Highlands which influenced the development of her own tweed suits.

Marie-Hélène Arnaud in tweed suit from Chanel's Fall/Winter 1959 collection, wearing Chanel shoes and the 2.55 Chanel handbag. Chanel would pin the materials to the model rather than a mannequin to create more natural shapes which women could move in. She hated Dior's New Look for re-introducing corsets that restrict women.

Chanel eventually sold her business to her the Wertheimer family and spent the last 20 years of her life living at The Ritz in Paris. Local folklore is that on her deathbed she was said to have exclaimed to a maid, 'this is how you die!'. Style and drama: classic Chanel! 

A palette cleanser to the exhibition: a simplicity of black and white with fascinating details on the collar, wrists and the jacket cutting mid-thigh whilst the skirt just above the knee; incredibly flattering and feminine.